Chinstrap Penguin on Iceberg, Cuverville Island, Antarctic PeninsulaWe came ashore at Cuverville Island by zodiac, which is the only way you get anywhere on the Antarctic Peninsula. The icebergs around the landing site were enormous, and this one had a single chinstrap penguin perched right at the top, looking down at me like I was the odd one out. Which, to be fair, I was. The overcast gave completely even, shadowless light across the ice. Flat grey sky, flat grey water. What that meant in practice was every crack