Château Haut-Brion Premier Cru Classé, Pessac-Leognan, 2025, 75clThe 2025 Haut Brion is, as usual, more reserved and austere at this stage than La Mission, unwinding in the glass to reveal notions of dark wild berries mingled with spices, pencil leaf and licorice. Medium to full bodied, dense and layered, its built around a multidimensional core of fruit framed by structuring yet well integrated tannins, delivering a notably controlled expression of power and concluding with a long, perfumed, subtly ethereal